Bavaria

     July 5th Marla went home to the USA and SPCL-K flew to Munich where we rented a van and went to Penzberg. We stayed with Rainer and Claudia who were Stephanie's host family years ago when Steph lived in Germany. Claudia cooked us spätzle with a mushroom sauce. Claudia is a fantastic Bavarian cook. 

     On the 6th we toured Neuschwanstein Castle. It was a beautiful day in Bavaria and the castle was fantastical. We had lunch at a biergarten then went swimming at Bad Bayerschoien. A good stop on a hot humid day. Claudia cooked again that night a lovely spread of wienerschnitzel and Bavarian potato salad. 

     On the 7th we drove in to Munich. We wandered through the market. We saw the Glockenspiel in the Marienplatz (center of downtown) perform a mechanical number for noon. We looked in the beautiful churches of Frauenkirche and Theatinerkirche. For lunch we ate at Steph's favorite Munich restaurant Zum Dürnbräu. I had three large white sausages and a weißbier. We walked through the courtyards of the Residenz of the old Bavarian kings. Cael got a Bayern t-shirt. We drove back out and took Rainer and Claudia out for dinner between thunderstorms. 

     On the 8th we had a lazy morning then we spent the rest of the day with Rainer and Claudia's family. Their elder daughter Netti and her husband Fabian drove down from Berlin with their kids Nikolaus and Ellie. We met at R&C's son Basti's house with his wife Steffi and kids Amelie and Till. Basti has a great Bavarian house with a large back yard. We sat out under big oak trees while the kids ran around, played games, kicked the fûtbol and swung. Basti and Steffi are good cooks and there was plenty of wine. Stephanie was very happy to meet with her German second family. We felt very welcome and hope to see them in the US. 

     On the 9th Cael and I drove into Munich and watched the F1race with actual fans in an Irish pub. Steph will tell you what they did. 

     Lumia, Kyra and I hung out for the morning with Rainer and Claudia waiting to hear from Basti if he was going to meet up with us. Confirmed a bit later than Rainer had hoped (he admitted his impatience) and we were off to Walchensee where Basti, Amelie and Till were ready with wheeled bikes and scooters. It was a gorgeous green lake with many bikers, hikers and sun bathers. Kyra got to experience the German FKK (nude sunbathing) because the weather was warm and everyone was looking to cool down. We walked, wheeled and strolled until a beach where we had a snack and dipped our toes in the lake. By the time we returned to the car, we decided that we probably needed to skip coffee and cake and jump right into an early dinner. We took a toll road from the lake back to near Basti's. The weather turned and we had a downpour. There were many gorgeous camping spots along the way. (Made me almost want to do a camping vacation in Bavaria, if it weren't for all that sleeping on the ground.) After all parities drove through thunderstorms we all met at a really nice biergarten atop a hill that is part of an Abbey. A perfect view of the alps, brewery on site and amazing Bavarian food topped off the day. 

     Rainer and Claudia are fantastic hosts. Claudia really loves kids and made ours feel very special. She and I had shared moments when the kids would ask questions like - are we there yet - and quickly the question in the other language would be spoken because that's what kids ask. Seeing Basti and Netti parent was wonderful and I sure hope we don't wait as long between visits. Maybe a visit to Netti and Fabian's place in France? Maybe a camping trip together in Canada? I am so grateful for the reconnection with the whole family and feel like they truly continue to embrace me and my family so lovingly. On top of the reunions, we had a good time and ate great food. Bavaria is fun. We bought at least a dozen bags of Gummibärchen and lots of chocolate to bring home.

     Two days of travel are wrapping up. Kyra is on her way home and we are in a train to Dover for a mellow couple of days. I write this on the Eurostar as it streaks across the french country side. One big travel tip. Avoid Charles De Gaulle airport at all costs. It is the worst.

Ah Paris

     I write this at the Paris airport on our way to the next part of our trip. Paris was wonderful. The food was always great even burgers and fries. I thought that more people here take pride in their food jobs as they are more likely to make a living wage in Paris and others suggested a feeling of national pride. The wine was also excellent, even the 'house' wine. I will also reiterate how wonderful our appartment was. It was comfortable, spacious, convenient, and well provided. Our hosts say that they are going to retire from posting online any longer so I am sad to say that I will not be able to recommend it. Thanks Olivier and Marie-Pierre. 

     July 3 we split forces after breakfast and SPCL took the Métro north to Montmartre where we wandered up the hill past the Wall of Love to Sacré-Cœur. We stopped for coffee and pastries near the top where Cael professed to have "the best croissant I ever had." Then we viewed the hazy city from the steps and toured the basilica. 

     We walked down to the canal where we had lunch and shopped. Stephanie bought a beautiful dress. We had lunch canal side at Le Sésame. Steph and I had big salads and the kids had salmon bagels. 

     We met the rest of the party at the appartment and took the Métro south to Montparnasse, the tallest building in Paris, where we saw the whole city and got lots of great photos. We ended the day back at the appartment where we had dinner of sautéed market veggies over pasta and a rosé with my name on it. It was getting warmer that day and the rain was a memory. 

     Yesterday, July 4, was a busy one. We got up at a good hour to get a lot in. Upon many suggestions we went to Blu Sucré for breakfast. Beautiful pastries. We wandered the Aligre Market. It was Market day and the surrounding streets were full of veggies and antiques. Then we crossed the river, walked through the Jardin des Plantes to the Grand Mosque of Paris. They have a café there with delicious mint tea. 

     We walked up a beautiful midevil street, Rue Du Bac, and we bought little bits and bites from an Italian market, a gourmet gelato store, the best creperie we found, and a beautiful tart maker. 

      Then we met our tour guide for her Paris Café tour where we had many tastings including chocolates made for Marie Antoinette. We saw the oldest cafés and reasurants in Paris. Then we split forces. Cael and Lumia and I found the Tintin store and the rest headed home to start dinner. This was our last night in Paris so we emptied the fridge. 

     Paris was wonderful I miss it already. 

Cheese and 2 more days in Paris

     Those cheeses from the other day were: 1) Fourme d'Ambert semi hard blue cheese from roman times 2) Bouygette chèvre 3) St. Henri 4) Fleur de Maquis rosemary sheeps milk 5) red peppercorn chèvre 6) Brie with truffles 7) Comte reserve

     July first! We got up a bit later and did the Métro to The Louvre. Louie XIV thought Paris was too confining so he ditched the Louvre and build Versailles. His loss, our gain. This place is freaking huge and full of amazing art. Cael loved the Greco Roman statuary. We saw the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the Raft of the Medusa. Then we wandered the neighborhood north of the palace and shopped. Kyra bought a dress and Lu tried on hats. We had Thai food as a change of pace from the French cuisine. 

     July the Second! We got up much earlier. Marla and I did the Bastille Market just 2 blocks from our house and got treats for breakfast. Then we took the Métro to Notre Dame. I forgot my Musée pass so some people did the cathedral with good classical music during the Eurcharist while I ran back to the appartment. There was live music at every train and stop. Later I bought a CD from one of the bands of old Slavic guys. Then we saw the beautiful Chaple St. Chapelle where Louie XIV built a beautiful building for what he bought as The Crown of Thorns. Really nice building for a hat. We had lunch of crépes then Cael and I bought books at Shakespeare and Company. We wandered down the Seine and saw the book sellers. Then saw the Water Lillies in the Musée l'Orangerie. This is 8 gigantic Monets of his water garden displayed in two oval rooms making the 360 degree painting. It was beautiful. One of the greatest art experiences of my life. Lumia sat in my lap and we looked for a long time at my favorite and I think she got it for a minute. We tubed back to our neighborhood. Cael and I got the Pilote issue all about the Valerian movie coming out. We had a yummy dinner just down the street from our apartment and now we are having a night cap. Let's hope tomorrow has no rain!

Two days in Paris

     I was too wiped last night to write so I will speak of two days. Yesterday morning the rest of our group, Marla and Kyra, arrived from North Dakota. We entertained them with our local fresh market at Bastille. It was full of the vendors you expect. Cheese, meat, food, flowers, antiques, and junk. We snacked on pastries and the vendors handed out cherries. We used these treats for our lunch of a large salad and market paella. 

     Our new jetlagged people napped while SPCL walked through the Marais neighborhood. We saw La Place des Vosges, The Picasso Museum, and the Pompidou. There were lots of fantastic shops. We got rained on while sitting in the courtyard of Pompidou. We wandered back home for a dinner made from fresh pasta from the Bastille Market and left over beef from the previous night. We them walked down for the Seine for the sunset and gelato at Berthillon. 

     Today we were refreshed from our best night's sleep. We took the Métro to the Musée d'Orsay. Riding the train in Paris is more difflucult then London but not impossible. At the Musée we saw fantastic Monets, Renoirs, Cezanes, Degas and many more. It is a great use of an old train station. We had a French Café lunch on the sidewalk under the awning while it rained. I had confit de canard that was so yummy, Cael is a convert. Marla had a huge steak tartare. Stephanie had salmon over fresh pasta with a mushroom sauce. We stopped by to see Napoleon's Tomb. Then we wandered down Rue Cler. We went to The Cheese Shop and bought eight different cheeses. I will work on the official list later. Lumia picked out a pretty red dress. Then we walked to the Eiffel Tower. Finally we had a great dinner of leftovers and a cheese plate in our fantastic apartment. Now the moon is rising over Paris and we will soon go to bed. Go see our photos!

Paris

     I did not think I needed to elaborate on the title of this post. We arrived today in Paris. Travels went well. We tubed to King's Cross Station for our obligatory Platform 9 & 3/4 photo op. The station immediately next door was where we caught the Eurostar to Paris. This is a fast train. It topped out at 230 k/hr. Everyone has been very helpful when my very poor French fails me for example a Parisian who spoke for me when we could not figure out how to get through the luggage gate at the Métro. 

     It was raining in Paris when we arrived so we took the Métro to our new neighborhood where we met our lovely hostess who name is currently escaping me. The apartment is beautiful. It is a large, light-filled artist's studio on the 4th floor of a little alley in the middle of Paris. An oasis.

     We walked around our neighborhood which was not very crowded. Lots of European kids are still in school so this is a good time to travel. We went to A la Biche au Bois upon Mark and Karen's suggestion and were thrilled. We sat at a tiny table by the window next to a gang of Boys winding down Pride Week. We had the menu of the day which included country paté, potato salad, two kinds of beef, bordeaux, raspberry sorbet, and a cheese selection. I got a lump in my throat when Monsieur brought out the cheese plate. Seven choices. We had three and they were delicious. It was a very French restaurant in the very best ways. 

     Then we walked the delirious kids along the Seine for sunset and now we are home for a night cap and bed. I can't imagine that it gets better but this is only the first half day. Paris has been tres magnifique! Bon soir.

Yes it rains on vacation

     London did not disappoint. In fact it showed off all its weather options from brilliant blue skies yesterday to pouring down rain with mugginess today. It did not, however, slow down the Intrepid Explorers. We brought our rain coats. 

    We had a great breakfast in our neighborhood at Pimlico Fresh where we chatted up a young couple vacationing from Victoria BC. Then we caught The Tube to The Tower of London. I learned that Lumia does not know her east from west. I will have to work on that. Small world around Stephanie hit as we ran into friends of friends at the tower ticket line. So the kids had other kids to talk to and we had parents to smile at while the Beefeaters shared their ribald humor - he told tales of old and new leaders who seem to think that building walls keeps the ruffians out. It didn't work then; he wasn't convinced that it will now. We saw the Crown Jewels and toured the old White Tower. 

     We walked across the Tower Bridge to the Burrough Market for lunch and window shopping. The market came well recommended and did not disappoint. We had yummy sandwiches, Lu got a giant meringue, and we looked at cheese and charcuterie and juice and olive oil and truffle and baked goods shops - amazing! We got a shot at the filming site for the supposed entrance to the Leaky Cauldron. We walked along the Thames and saw the Old Globe, the Tate Modern, and the Millenium Bridge.

     Then we supped with Stephanie's long-time friend Amy Warburton who lives up north. She regaled Lu with stories about when they were younger. Lumia loves stories like that. Hopefully our jet lag is fully done and we will sleep tonight. Paris tomorrow. Cheers!

Day two in London

     We slept half way through the night. Had a break for Harry Potter then slept for a few more hours. When we got up we had a Beautiful Day in London. It took Cael a bit to wake up this am. Look at his grump face.  We walked to the Thames by way of the Tate Britain. We walked along the far side to see Westminster. The queue at the Abbey was too long to make it to our lunch reservations. 

     We walked up into SOHO, fun neighborhood, for lunch at Yotam Ottolenghi's reasurant Nopi. I'm a poor hipster as I did not take photos of the food. Fortunately my companions were photogenic. It was very delicious. We had courgette fritters, green beans with asaparagus and peas, the jicama, a blue cheese cake with beets and almonds, scallops, and the sirloin with a seaweed salad. Steph and I like the savory cheese cake, Cael liked the jicama, Lumia like the fritters. We all agreed that they had super cool bathrooms. Not my picture follows.

 

     I'm sure Cael will tell you that the best part of the day was finding a killer sale at the Addidas store for a Aresenal jersey. Then we wandered further north to the British Museum where we saw anchient Egyptian,  Assyrian, and Greek works of art. Sadly the reading room was closed. If you heave not seen it, it is one of the most beautiful libraries in the world. Not my picture follows.

 

     We wandered through Fitzrovia near the museum and upon a suggestion by a few locals we went for pizza. Then the kids had their first Underground ride. Now we have our feet up and are ready for bed. Good first full day of our trip. 

     There is a link to the right for our Flickr page where you can see the corresponding photos. Cheers!