Bavaria

     July 5th Marla went home to the USA and SPCL-K flew to Munich where we rented a van and went to Penzberg. We stayed with Rainer and Claudia who were Stephanie's host family years ago when Steph lived in Germany. Claudia cooked us spätzle with a mushroom sauce. Claudia is a fantastic Bavarian cook. 

     On the 6th we toured Neuschwanstein Castle. It was a beautiful day in Bavaria and the castle was fantastical. We had lunch at a biergarten then went swimming at Bad Bayerschoien. A good stop on a hot humid day. Claudia cooked again that night a lovely spread of wienerschnitzel and Bavarian potato salad. 

     On the 7th we drove in to Munich. We wandered through the market. We saw the Glockenspiel in the Marienplatz (center of downtown) perform a mechanical number for noon. We looked in the beautiful churches of Frauenkirche and Theatinerkirche. For lunch we ate at Steph's favorite Munich restaurant Zum Dürnbräu. I had three large white sausages and a weißbier. We walked through the courtyards of the Residenz of the old Bavarian kings. Cael got a Bayern t-shirt. We drove back out and took Rainer and Claudia out for dinner between thunderstorms. 

     On the 8th we had a lazy morning then we spent the rest of the day with Rainer and Claudia's family. Their elder daughter Netti and her husband Fabian drove down from Berlin with their kids Nikolaus and Ellie. We met at R&C's son Basti's house with his wife Steffi and kids Amelie and Till. Basti has a great Bavarian house with a large back yard. We sat out under big oak trees while the kids ran around, played games, kicked the fûtbol and swung. Basti and Steffi are good cooks and there was plenty of wine. Stephanie was very happy to meet with her German second family. We felt very welcome and hope to see them in the US. 

     On the 9th Cael and I drove into Munich and watched the F1race with actual fans in an Irish pub. Steph will tell you what they did. 

     Lumia, Kyra and I hung out for the morning with Rainer and Claudia waiting to hear from Basti if he was going to meet up with us. Confirmed a bit later than Rainer had hoped (he admitted his impatience) and we were off to Walchensee where Basti, Amelie and Till were ready with wheeled bikes and scooters. It was a gorgeous green lake with many bikers, hikers and sun bathers. Kyra got to experience the German FKK (nude sunbathing) because the weather was warm and everyone was looking to cool down. We walked, wheeled and strolled until a beach where we had a snack and dipped our toes in the lake. By the time we returned to the car, we decided that we probably needed to skip coffee and cake and jump right into an early dinner. We took a toll road from the lake back to near Basti's. The weather turned and we had a downpour. There were many gorgeous camping spots along the way. (Made me almost want to do a camping vacation in Bavaria, if it weren't for all that sleeping on the ground.) After all parities drove through thunderstorms we all met at a really nice biergarten atop a hill that is part of an Abbey. A perfect view of the alps, brewery on site and amazing Bavarian food topped off the day. 

     Rainer and Claudia are fantastic hosts. Claudia really loves kids and made ours feel very special. She and I had shared moments when the kids would ask questions like - are we there yet - and quickly the question in the other language would be spoken because that's what kids ask. Seeing Basti and Netti parent was wonderful and I sure hope we don't wait as long between visits. Maybe a visit to Netti and Fabian's place in France? Maybe a camping trip together in Canada? I am so grateful for the reconnection with the whole family and feel like they truly continue to embrace me and my family so lovingly. On top of the reunions, we had a good time and ate great food. Bavaria is fun. We bought at least a dozen bags of Gummibärchen and lots of chocolate to bring home.

     Two days of travel are wrapping up. Kyra is on her way home and we are in a train to Dover for a mellow couple of days. I write this on the Eurostar as it streaks across the french country side. One big travel tip. Avoid Charles De Gaulle airport at all costs. It is the worst.

Ah Paris

     I write this at the Paris airport on our way to the next part of our trip. Paris was wonderful. The food was always great even burgers and fries. I thought that more people here take pride in their food jobs as they are more likely to make a living wage in Paris and others suggested a feeling of national pride. The wine was also excellent, even the 'house' wine. I will also reiterate how wonderful our appartment was. It was comfortable, spacious, convenient, and well provided. Our hosts say that they are going to retire from posting online any longer so I am sad to say that I will not be able to recommend it. Thanks Olivier and Marie-Pierre. 

     July 3 we split forces after breakfast and SPCL took the Métro north to Montmartre where we wandered up the hill past the Wall of Love to Sacré-Cœur. We stopped for coffee and pastries near the top where Cael professed to have "the best croissant I ever had." Then we viewed the hazy city from the steps and toured the basilica. 

     We walked down to the canal where we had lunch and shopped. Stephanie bought a beautiful dress. We had lunch canal side at Le Sésame. Steph and I had big salads and the kids had salmon bagels. 

     We met the rest of the party at the appartment and took the Métro south to Montparnasse, the tallest building in Paris, where we saw the whole city and got lots of great photos. We ended the day back at the appartment where we had dinner of sautéed market veggies over pasta and a rosé with my name on it. It was getting warmer that day and the rain was a memory. 

     Yesterday, July 4, was a busy one. We got up at a good hour to get a lot in. Upon many suggestions we went to Blu Sucré for breakfast. Beautiful pastries. We wandered the Aligre Market. It was Market day and the surrounding streets were full of veggies and antiques. Then we crossed the river, walked through the Jardin des Plantes to the Grand Mosque of Paris. They have a café there with delicious mint tea. 

     We walked up a beautiful midevil street, Rue Du Bac, and we bought little bits and bites from an Italian market, a gourmet gelato store, the best creperie we found, and a beautiful tart maker. 

      Then we met our tour guide for her Paris Café tour where we had many tastings including chocolates made for Marie Antoinette. We saw the oldest cafés and reasurants in Paris. Then we split forces. Cael and Lumia and I found the Tintin store and the rest headed home to start dinner. This was our last night in Paris so we emptied the fridge. 

     Paris was wonderful I miss it already. 

Cheese and 2 more days in Paris

     Those cheeses from the other day were: 1) Fourme d'Ambert semi hard blue cheese from roman times 2) Bouygette chèvre 3) St. Henri 4) Fleur de Maquis rosemary sheeps milk 5) red peppercorn chèvre 6) Brie with truffles 7) Comte reserve

     July first! We got up a bit later and did the Métro to The Louvre. Louie XIV thought Paris was too confining so he ditched the Louvre and build Versailles. His loss, our gain. This place is freaking huge and full of amazing art. Cael loved the Greco Roman statuary. We saw the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and the Raft of the Medusa. Then we wandered the neighborhood north of the palace and shopped. Kyra bought a dress and Lu tried on hats. We had Thai food as a change of pace from the French cuisine. 

     July the Second! We got up much earlier. Marla and I did the Bastille Market just 2 blocks from our house and got treats for breakfast. Then we took the Métro to Notre Dame. I forgot my Musée pass so some people did the cathedral with good classical music during the Eurcharist while I ran back to the appartment. There was live music at every train and stop. Later I bought a CD from one of the bands of old Slavic guys. Then we saw the beautiful Chaple St. Chapelle where Louie XIV built a beautiful building for what he bought as The Crown of Thorns. Really nice building for a hat. We had lunch of crépes then Cael and I bought books at Shakespeare and Company. We wandered down the Seine and saw the book sellers. Then saw the Water Lillies in the Musée l'Orangerie. This is 8 gigantic Monets of his water garden displayed in two oval rooms making the 360 degree painting. It was beautiful. One of the greatest art experiences of my life. Lumia sat in my lap and we looked for a long time at my favorite and I think she got it for a minute. We tubed back to our neighborhood. Cael and I got the Pilote issue all about the Valerian movie coming out. We had a yummy dinner just down the street from our apartment and now we are having a night cap. Let's hope tomorrow has no rain!